With an overwhelming array of skincare products available today, many consumers find themselves spending money without seeing noticeable improvements to their skin. However, a recent study has identified key ingredients that dermatologists say truly deliver effective results. Published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, the study gathered insights from 62 dermatologists across numerous U.S. centers to pinpoint the most beneficial compounds for common skin concerns such as dryness and wrinkles.
Murad Alam, MD, vice chair and professor of dermatology at Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine, explained, “With so many products on the market, it’s impossible for dermatologists to keep up or answer every patient question. Our goal was to clarify which ingredients effectively address specific skin issues, thereby helping both patients and dermatologists."
The study evaluated 83 skincare ingredients, narrowing them down to 23 that dermatologists agreed were effective. "Dermatologists are aligned on evidence-based ingredients," noted Adam Friedman, MD, a professor of dermatology at George Washington University School of Medicine and Health Sciences, who wasn't involved in the research.
To arrive at the top ingredients, the research team first reviewed scientific literature, identifying 318 skincare compounds. A panel of 17 dermatologists then trimmed this list to 83 well-researched ingredients. A larger group of dermatologists was consulted on each ingredient's ability to address prevalent skin concerns. Here are some of the standout ingredients:
Derived from vitamin A, retinoids were hailed by dermatologists as top-tier for treating acne, fine lines, wrinkles, large pores, and oily skin. Adam Friedman referred to retinoids as the "hero ingredient" for anti-aging due to their ability to inhibit melanin production, accelerate cell turnover, and boost collagen—essential for maintaining firm, smooth skin. Prescription retinoids are generally stronger than their over-the-counter counterparts like retinols and retinyl palmitate. Caution is advised, as retinoids can initially cause dryness or irritation.
Recognized as crucial for skincare, sunscreen remains unparalleled in preventing fine lines and wrinkles. It protects against UV radiation, which is a major cause of collagen breakdown, elastin degradation, and DNA damage. Mineral sunscreen is particularly recommended for individuals with rosacea due to its gentler, protective barrier suitable for sensitive skin.
As a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), salicylic acid excels in treating acne and oily skin by exfoliating inside the follicle and binding to oil, effectively clearing dirt and bacteria. Over-the-counter availability makes it accessible, but users should gradually introduce it into their routine to avoid irritation.
Derived from sugar cane, this water-soluble acid enhances cell turnover and helps active ingredients penetrate deeply, making it effective for diminishing dark spots and acne.
Known as vitamin B3, niacinamide effectively fades dark spots and reduces facial redness. It works by calming inflammation and preventing excess pigmentation from surfacing.
This study provides valuable guidance for those seeking effective skincare products, highlighting ingredients with proven benefits that can address specific dermatological concerns efficiently and effectively.
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